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Restuarants are a bit like theatre

by Heather Gibson


Photo by Susannah Fields

One of the most prolific US based restaurateurs, Drew by Heather Gibson Nieporent was responsible for the launch of Nobu, together with Robert DeNiro and the then unknown Nobu Matsuhisa. A hallmark of innovation in Japanese cuisine,Nobu London became the first American owned restaurant to achieve a Michelin star in 1998. Yet this is only part of the story. As Founder of the Myriad Restaurant Group,Drew has opened 31 restaurants in 23 years and remains one of the leading innovators in new concepts.

Initially Robert held his own casting for the opening of our first restaurant together, which was the Tribeca Grill. At the end of the day this is what he is used to doing; even as an actor he is involved in all decisions.He introduced me to Nobu Matsuhisa, though I had known of him since 1987.Matsuhisa was not right for the Tribeca Grill, because it was an American restaurant. However, Nobu and Robert had a kinship and I wanted to try to make a business with him.We started talking about a Nobu restaurant in 1988, eventually opening in 1994.

“If it is a choice between John Doe and Robert De Niro it is better to have someone with notoriety, especially 18 years ago when celebrity was more downplayed. Robert is subtle and low key.There is a tremendous advantage with the association.”

Respect…

Drew Nieporent has developed a respected reputation both in the US and in the UK. In addition to Nobu and Nobu London, he operates two other versions of the restaurant - Next Door Nobu (which operates a no reservations policy) and Nobu 57 in New York’s uptown district.

Globally the brand has 20 locations, including a second in London, which Nobu Matsuhisa operates with a variety of business investors.The first Nobu Hotel is due to open in Israel in 2010 and a second is planned for New York within two to four years,
with De Niro on board as partner. It is interesting to learn that Drew had to convince both Robert and Nobu to make the decision to open in London.

“It was tough initially to get the buy-in as it was such a huge risk.We were doing things at that time that had never been done before. It’s like sometimes being an entrepreneur you have extra vision, you can see how it would work. For me we were entering a market without competition and we had a superior product. Our partnership with Christina Ong at the Metropolitan Hotel has been central to our success.Nobu London is not the same as Nobu New York, the feeling is uniquely British.”

Drew opened his first restaurant - Montrachet - in 1985 and the Myriad Group also includes Centrico and Mai House, a modern take on Mexican and Vietnamese cuisines respectively. In October this year he opened Corton, a modern version of French cuisine, in partnership with British chef Paul Liebrandt. An awardwinning wine and spirit business - Crush - completes the current Myriad
structure.

“Really a restaurant business is not one that lends itself well to extrapolation. I believe that our longevity has been remarkable.We are in our eighteenth year at the Tribeca Grill and our fourteenth year for Nobu. I compare restaurants to movies - can you watch a movie over and over, or do you become so fed up that you want a new one? Well, we have been doing the same movie for a long time.”

Experience…

Born and bred in New York, Drew graduated from Cornell University with a degree in hotel management in 1977. His career includes time spent with Maxwell’s Plum and Tavern on the Green, and the prestigious Manhattan based restaurants Le Perigord, Le Grenouille and Plaza Athenee’s Le Regence. He has previously said that “chefs are the new models” and Drew’s knack appears to push cuisine towards more contemporary boundaries, describing the creation of new restaurant concepts as “very rational” and a reflection of his experience to date.

“Having grown up in New York I was exposed to a great theatre of food. It was so authentic, literally right off the boat. My father as an attorney and my mother was an actress. I knew immediately that I wanted to do this as my profession; I think that restaurants are a bit like theatre.

“Cornell was the eminent school, with students coming from all over the world. It was the first time I had spent so much time with people from the Caribbean or Europe or Asia.The exposure to so many cultures was tremendous.”

A passionate and direct character, Drew reflects that an early experience working on luxury cruise liners as a student was a defining
moment in his career.

“My biggest breakthrough career wise was when I was 18 working on cruise ships. I was one of 60 waiters for 600 passengers, serving three meals a day. It was a real proving ground and gave me a lot of exposure.You knew you were privileged in a certain way, and it gave me the confidence to understand what it takes to inspire people.

“Ultimately, I want to be seen in the mould of Gordon Ramsay or Marco Pierre White; somebody who works with the best people and top talent. People do not want to be manipulated - there needs to be a level of respect and trust.”

Other ventures…

The Myriad Group’s other ventures have included the now closed Rubicon where Drew partnered with Robin Williams and Francis Ford Coppola, and there was even a venture at the Marriott Grand in Moscow.Montrachet was recently reopened after a complete
remodelling as Corton, which hedescribes as “a little like learning to walk again.”Drew is reflective when considering plans for further
expansion.

“We were going at a pretty fast clip until 9/11.The uncertainty that then arose meant that we had to adopt a wait and see attitude. I see Las Vegas, Puerto Rico and Louisville, Kentucky as potential areas for growth. In New York, other factors weigh in when you are deciding to launch new concepts. People are loyal to their neighbourhood, especially in local Manhattan. At this point in our development I actually think we would be better off outside New York.

“Government regulation is challenging. From the minute you open there are health, labour and environmental officers on your doorstep and there is an attitude shaping America which is that they will look to shut you down if necessary. In addition you have a
number of food critics plus theimpact of blogs and other internet sites which are not always accurate. So there is constant negativity.”

It is difficult to ignore the now ubiquitous topic of global finance in our discussion. One industry leader recently commented to me that the current crisis would ‘change the face of the industry, as we are an industry that relies upon debt’. Drew comments:

“The US is riddled with uncertainty. Everything is capitalised. It is extremely hard to borrow money and yet banks appear to have been getting away with poor investment decisions. In a way I knew this would happen.My approach is low risk/high return.You have to really drive the business to your door. I would open 20 more restaurants if the rents were more reasonable. But greed exists.

“Our industry is the best at policing itself but small businesses will be suffocated as prices escalate heavily. I am not optimistic at present.”

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