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Merging a business but retaining a flair for the creative

Is Africa ready to enjoy a Golden Age in the 21st Century?

In conversation with Peter da Costa - former Senior Communications Advisor for Africa to the UN - and his wife Ciru Mwaura, who between them have many years of experience working in Africa, on the development of tourism throughout the continent.

Africa is a continent that always seems to hold a special place in the heart – a continent full of mystic, breathtaking colour, natural beauty, a scent of danger and conflicting socio-cultures. Africa just oozes drama.Who has not been excited, at some point in their lives, by the idea of Africa? This excitement has often been generated by its unpredictability and the predominance of conflict, but today a belief is growing that
this continent is becoming more peaceful, better developed and ready to reap the dividends of tourism.

More accessible

No one doubts Africa’s potential in terms of its natural attractions; the question marks lie over its political and economic stability. Just as we have marvelled at its natural beauty and endowment of resources,we have also been shocked by its poverty and internal civil unrest.

As flight routes to Europe increase and costs of travel decrease, Africa has become ever more accessible for Europeans for both short and long holidays. It is therefore a natural step for those seeking to expand on easy to reach destinations to see Africa as offering new competition to the popular resort destinations in the Mediterranean, U.S, Caribbean and Dubai.

To be or not to be?

There is a widespread belief that Africa will enjoy a golden age in the 21st Century with the Tourism industry at the heart of their development. But is this belief based on fact and reality? Or is it just an erroneous perception? In the mid to late 1990s, South America was widely touted as the up and coming continent but, for a variety of reasons, it has just not happened. This is not to say that it will not – just that it has not happened in the way that many expected. So will the same be true for Africa? Beyond the few success stories, will Africa’s nations be able to attract global investment, which will be an important factor as these nations seek to develop their infrastructures?

The existing tourism industry in Africa clearly thrives in pockets – in the North with Egypt,Morocco and Tunisia; in the East with Kenya,
Tanzania and Zanzibar; in the West with Gambia; and in the South with South Africa. It is worth noting that in 2004, Kenya enjoyed its best year for attracting visitors since 1990 with over 668,000 visitors from Europe alone and with 60% increases in visitors from Denmark
and Spain and also an increase in American tourists for the first time since the bombings of 1998 and 2002.The importance of tourism to
the economy of these countries is fundamental as has been illustrated by both the governments of Tanzania and Zanzibar actively seeking foreign investment in developing their tourism Industries.

Understanding the nature of Africa

But which other parts of Africa have the potential to match these and become new destinations of choice?

To try and look into this issue a little deeper, En Passant spoke to a highly talented husband and wife team presently living in London and who truly do understand the nature, character and potential of Africa. Peter da Costa, a Gambian, spent nearly seven years based in Ethiopia as Senior Communication Adviser to the United Nations Under Secretary General at the Economic Commission for Africa, a regional development think-tank. His wife, Ciru, originates from Kenya and also works on development, specialising in conflict and peace building.They are engaging company with a true passion for their home continent and are able to provide a perspective that breaks beneath the superficial – an insight into both the potential and the complexities of developing a tourism industry throughout Africa.

Entrepreneurial

“Africa is so vast, diverse and is full of contradictions, so it’s difficult to categorise and pigeonhole”, notes Peter. “The predominant view is that Africa is a continent of poor people and babies with distended bellies. This portrays Africans as victims, when in reality there is a lot more going on than that.Africans are on the whole dynamic and entrepreneurial – did you know for example that mobile phones are growing in Africa at an unprecedented and exponential rate? This demonstrates what I’ve always believed – that Africans are no different from any other world citizens – they want to be modern and successful and are moving in that direction”.

“Africa is not just one continent – not just a maze of countries. It has a population of close to 800m in 53 countries, including North Africa, but there are strong historical links between many of the countries.There are more borders in Africa than in any other continent. But despite the high transaction cost of doing business this brings, the continent is developing. There are pockets of extreme wealth. The problem is one of inequality. Poverty is a reality for the masses with only a few that prosper. As long as the political systems do not become predictable and
stable, public and social infrastructure will not improve to the extent that poverty is effectively alleviated.”

Huge potential

Ciru agrees:“Some of the political structures are anachronisms. We will have to do a bit better if we want to sustain the fragile progress we see in so many of our countries.”

Their passion and enthusiasm for Africa is so clearly evident.Having lived in Ethiopia, they see its huge potential as a tourist destination, and believe that tourism, if properly managed, can help bring prosperity to what is one of the world’s poorest countries.The poverty of Ethiopia is only a part of the story.

“Many people view Ethiopia as being at the heart of Africa,” states Peter.

Ethiopia had a population of 70m. It is unique among African countries in that the ancient Ethiopian monarchy maintained its freedom from colonial rule with the exception of Italian occupation (1936-41). The result is 3,000 years of almost uninterrupted history with limited outside influence. It possesses unique churches hewn out of rock – some allegedly built in conjunction with the famous Knights Templar. It has also been suggested that Ethiopia is the home of the lost Ark of the Covenant. A British journalist called Graham Hancock who stated that he had found the exact location of the Ark of the Covenant claimed this after extensive research in Africa for The Economist. In his book, The Sign and Seal: The Quest for the Lost Ark of the Covenant, Hancock argues that the ark was removed from Solomon’s temple during the reign of Manasseh, transported to Elephantine Island along the Nile, and was finally placed in the Church of St. Mary Zion in the small town of Axum, Ethiopia, where he believes it exists to this day.

In 1962,The Organisation of African Unity was founded with a mandate to accelerate the decolonization of Africa. Emperor Haile Selassie successfully lobbied for the OAU to be housed in the Ethiopian capital Addis Ababa. Four years before that, the United Nations Economic Commission for Africa was established.As a result, and from a political as well as development perspective, Ethiopia is the home of African macro-politics.There are 90 or so embassies based in Addis Ababa, originally built as a feudal capital but rapidly acquiring the trappings of a modern city.

Economically, Ethiopia has significant potential, not least for its legendary coffee – the word ‘coffee’ is said to have originated from its coffee-growing Kaffa region, and farmers export large volumes to western markets. Ethiopian Airlines is also regarded as one of the
best in Africa.However, Ethiopia is still a young democracy. A feudal system several centuries old was overthrown by Marxists who ran the country from 1973 to 1991. A new constitution was adopted in 1994 and its first multiparty elections were held in 1995.This year’s
elections have also not been without incident.

Lack of opportunity

Politics aside, Ethiopia’s service industries are not yet as service focused as they could be – a hangover of 18 years of Marxist rule that robbed people of incentives.

Aside from the 5-star Addis Sheraton and nearby Hilton, there are few top hotels to speak of. Lack of opportunity is very much in existence and clear for all to see. To place this into perspective, of the population of 70m, 44% are aged fewer than 14 with only 2.7% aged above 65.The median age for a male is 17.65. Compare these figures to Europe and you get a strong sense of a burgeoning young population with few jobs in existence outside the public sector.

Nevertheless, there is hope on the horizon. “Ethiopia will progress if the government is stable and also if it can prove that it can attract international investment for the right reasons. Historically, outsiders have been reluctant to invest, as the bureaucracy has not been investment-friendly. The economy was very much statecontrolled, and foreigners still can’t own property in Ethiopia. But the potential is
vast and there’s also a huge domestic market to be developed. If the politics stabilises and remains so, there are few reasons why Ethiopia should not flourish and prosper.”

“It does have great tourism features – great churches, great myths, great paintings and close by, next door in Djibouti, there are some fabulous beaches.”

I note that to often the glamorous jewel of Africa is East Africa.

Security Issues

Ciru, who originates from Kenya, took up on this point; “Ummm … yes and no. Kenya has a well-developed tourism industry and it is the second largest revenue generator. It has beautiful beaches, safe seas, corals, great climate, safaris, etc. But it is dominated by the package holiday and there is a question as to whether tourism really does interact with local cultures. One other problem is that security issues are
growing.”

“Beyond, Kenya, Tanzania, and Zanzibar it is still to be truly developed. Uganda has one of the fastest growing economies because the current government is developing a market economy but not everyone believes that the economy is entirely sustainable. A large percentage of the Ugandan budget is externally funded and this negatively affects the incentives to collect internally generated revenues. Uganda may be a victim of its own success as a darling of the international community. Despite all this, the newly resurgent East African community will bring an unprecedented set of trading links between Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda, and promises a major increase in prosperity.”

Peter then moved the focus of discussion from East Africa to the West. “West Africa may not have the natural appeal of the East and South, but it will be interesting to observe. It is closer to the West. Its countries have calmed down a lot and are becoming far more
stable. Ghana is a very good example. It has a thriving family hotel business with great food, beautiful landscapes and a good economy. Despite the doomsday stories we hear every day, Nigeria should come through. Nigerians are very industrious people – entrepreneurial by nature. Nigeria is potentially the engine of Africa.”

“Senegal, too, is very encouraging and promises much.”They note that Senegal and Morocco have built a joint venture airline business that is flourishing. This is another example of cross border alliances that work to mutual benefit.

“The real problem areas are Central Africa and the Congo. Great beauty, huge market potential, great natural attractions but still some way to go because of conflict and poor governance.”

This twosome clearly enjoy talking about Africa. They also note areas for caution.

Threatened ecosystem

“Tourism needs to be well controlled and managed,” notes Peter, “ Just look at Lake Malawi. I remember going there once; I was young and it was just stunningly beautiful, full of fish. It was famed for its beauty. Now it has been over fished to the extent, immature stock is being pulled out of the water. Overall, there are worrying problems of the sustainability of the ecosystem. Other countries in the sub region face
their own environmental challenges”

“It is also important that tourism does not encourage negative cultural exchange. There needs to be interaction that benefits everyone equally, while preserving the environment for future generations.”

This is a point also made by the Tanzanian President, Benjamin William Mkapa who stated:“ We have a unique tourism mix. We must keep a correct balance between exploitation and conservation and between economic interests and the social, environmental and cultural impact of human activity in tourism”.

French panache

We had talked about politics, about economics, but how about the cuisine?

“Very varied and potentially a winning export for Africa. In Frenchspeaking Africa, the food is a delightful combination of traditional dishes
presented with French panache. Portuguese-speaking countries boast a melange of African and Portuguese, a bit like Brazilian food. West African food is growing in popularity in Western cities. Ethiopian food is an acquired taste seen as something of a delicacy in the West, with very rich, spicy stews eaten with Injera, a local bread made from teff, a uniquely Ethiopian grain . As you can imagine, Ethiopians also love their coffee, and the local coffee ceremony is quite distinct and extremely aromatic.”

We have talked for over an hour and a half and this discussion could have gone on for the same length again – it was so easy listening to them talk about the issues. The right ingredients

Their message was clear – that Africa does possess the potential but that political and economic structures need to become stable and that tourism needs to become an integral part of the economic structure that is not too westernised. It will take time. Economically and politically, and in comparison to the many centuries it took for Western countries to develop the institutions and structures to support market economies, Africa is still relatively young. However, they also clearly have more belief in the entrepreneurial nature of the people than they do in the political structures.

“Africa is full of contradictions. While some of the political systems can be characterised as monolithic and domineering, the natural character of many Africans is decidedly entrepreneurial, and millions of people have survived despite the shenanigans of their governments. It is important that the political structures change to allow the people to express themselves and prosper. After all, peace and prosperity are what all we Africans want.”


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