EP Magazine

Weird science

More than 450 biodynamic wines are produced worldwide. Embraced as the ‘next big thing’ in the wine industry, it is a form of wine-making which embraces both the environmental and spiritual forces of nature, creating a product which reflects its regional heritage. In the UK one of the most vociferous exponents for this development is Eric Narioo, the founder of wine retailer Les Caves de Pyrene and owner of Terroirs restaurant. Christian Delteil met with him to discuss

"According to Greek mythology, Pyrene was a nymph; daughter of King Bebrycius and lover of Hercules, she bore a serpent and became so terrified that she fled to the woods where she died. Hercules created a tomb for her by piling up rocks thus forming the mountain range of the Pyrenees named after her, and the legend lives on today."

Born in south-west France, Eric Narioo was raised on a farm in Gascony located in Bearn County – an area which rests at the foot of the Pyrenees. It is a region full
of traditions, farms and good vintage – a region where, from a young age, one is educated to appreciate wine as part of every day life and very much associated with food. Despite his success in London launching Les Caves de Pyrene and latterly Terroirs in 2007, Eric has remained grounded in the roots of his regional French heritage and this is reflected in his business ventures. Eric’s passion, simply, is wine – true wine, peasant wine.

“To me, when I try a wine I want to feel the area, the sweat and the blood of the wine grower, and that the wine maker has not forgotten his origins. Today we  understand how to make good wine, not like in the old days, but we must retain the essence and spirit of the region. Wines are called regional for a reason
– it did not just happen over the last century, but they are the legacy of over a thousand years. Each region and area has its own soil with a specific character… and we must preserve it. In a small way I try to play our part in promoting and encouraging those wine makers.”

A long believer in true taste and traditions, it is no surprise that Eric is a great supporter of biodynamic and organic wines. He constantly supports and encourages wine makers who are still making wine the way they use to do it, long before the use of chemicals and other pesticide control came into play during the early 60s.  Eric has always believed wine should be made by nature and not helped by chemistry, and that the intervention of the wine grower in the vineyard and wine maker
in the winery should be kept to a minimum. “You know every wine starts with the fruit, and only healthy soil will produce a good fruit. After that, it’s relatively easy to make good wine.”

Of course all this could look like a new fashion or trend of the moment. But I believe this is here to stay. People want a greener planet, food that has not been  tampered with either chemically or artificially. Consumers demand better control on what is added to our food and consumable products. “It might be nice to see
a very shiny fruit and vegetable on the shelf of a supermarket or any shop, but is it good for your body?”

The beauty about this changing time in the wine industry is that we now have a new generation of vine growers, who have a different view on the way they want to run their business and managed their land. They want to be greener; they care about the impact and the positive changes they could leave to the next generation of farmers, and have great respect for the soil. All of this should result in cleaner wines. Biodynamic production is a growing industry and many producers have
recognised that the process has resulted in an improvement in the health of their vineyards. After all, the soil is where everything grows and the natural balance and purity of the soil’s health is essential to good farming.

Eric’s passion for wine is more about reflecting a product through tradition and regional identity, making sure regional wine grape varieties and blend are preserved and introduced to the wine market. Some of the wines are completely different in taste, colour, and structure than you and I have ever experienced. Some might be lighter in colours, more like a rose than a red wine, and others slightly cloudy, but each taste provides a different experience. As Eric laughingly points out, “We have customers coming back and asking for the weird wine they had last time, or for a new one!”

Like many people who hail from Gascon, Eric played rugby for many years while growing up. He studied law for two years but quickly realised it wasn’t for him and left to pursue his ambition of becoming a photographer. Given that becoming fluent in English was a necessity, he came to London and has remained in the Capital ever since. Early on, Eric spotted great potential for an independent wine company specialising in French regional wine; Les Cave de Pyrene started with a limited budget, and had to find a position within a difficult and completive market. A few years later, surrounded by a great team which originally included Liz Reid, Christian Gaucher and Adrian Scholes, Eric has led and developed a successful wine business. “We went around knocking on doors to introduce ourselves and the company. We grew the business through friends and recommendations.” Today Les Caves de Pyrene’s annual turnover is £15 million and the business employs 40 people. In 2007 Eric was ranked 44 among London’s 100 most influential people by The Evening Standard. After many years of pursuing his passion through a wine supplier
company, two years ago Eric brought his knowledge and passion to the restaurants scene and launched Terroirs to critical acclaim. However, he insists that his principal focus remains the wine business, only offering advice and opinion on Terroirs, with final decisions being made by the team.

“My first aim was to create a ‘window’ for the wine growers we represent, so if I was going to be involved in a restaurant I wanted the team to have a sense of  ownership. To start we found this site which nobody wanted and, with a budget of £500,000 completed a major refurbishment. Everyone contributed to the design of the restaurant; the team travelled through France and bought items from regional antique markets. We opened the ground floor at the beginning and a few months ago we finally opened our basement space adding another 50 covers. Everyone brings their own ideas, visions, inspirations and all of them have contributed to make Terroirs a vibrant restaurant – they are the true owners of the place.”

I have eaten at Terroirs and, personally, it reminds me of the Blue Ribbon in New York; a place where you belong, a place you can call home, and I think that is  what makes this company a little bit special. Throughout Eric’s business’ he offers originality, truth and genuine care. And like Hercules tomb for Pyrene, he never forgets what he stands for and loves, and has built something to remember.

(Photos: Susannah Fields, Flashfields Photography)